The Marmara Region

Izmit

 A fast new highway connects Istanbul with Izmit, the capital of the Kocaeli province. An important city in Roman times when it was known as Nicomedeia, it is now a prosperous industrial center. Historical buildings, among them an ancient Roman castle, aqueducts, nymphaum, agora, Temple of Augustus and a cistern, remain although the industrial character of the city somewhat obscures its sense of history. The Saatci Efendi Konak, a restored typical 18th century Ottoman mansion, now serves as the Ethnological Museum. Pismaniye, the local sweet, consists of thousands of thin layers of stretched sugar.

Hereke, west of Izmit is a major carpet making center. Renowned throughout the world for their beauty and quality, these rugs fetch the highest prices in Istanbul's bazaars. On the Black Sea coast, north of Izmit, particularly at Kerpe, Kefken and Kovanagzi, sandy beaches and comfortable guest houses attract vacationers.

Sakarya

East of Izmit, Sakarya is the provincial capital of the province of Adapazari, an important agricultural and industrial region. The Sakarya (Sangarius) River waters this fertile land which abounds with fruit trees and fields of vegetables. In the city of Adapazari itself, the Ataturk and Ethnographical Museum hold personal effects of the founder of the Turkish Republic as well as regional artifacts. The Beskopru Bridge built by the Byzantine emperor Justinian in 553 stretches for 429 meters across the river. Eight arches connect the two shores.

A few kilometers away at Lake Sapanca, quiet restaurants and hotels line the lakeshore; Istanbulities escape to this retreat in the Saman Mountain basin throughout the year. Near the town of Sapanca are the Sinan designed Rustem Pasha Mosque and bath (1553). The Arifiye Forest on the highlands of Lake Sapanca has nice camping and picnic areas and an excellent panoramic view of the lake below.

The Akgol Lake lies just inland from the Black Sea Karasu holiday center. At Tarakli you can wander though a town that preserves many of its old buildings.

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Formerly known as Nicaea, lznik lies at the eastern tip of Lake lznik south of Izmit. Originally an important Roman and Byzantine town, it fell to the Seljuks in 1078 and subsequently to the Ottomans in 1331. Still a small town, it does not seem to have exceeded its original Roman walls. The four gates which allowed access to the city still stand. In the town center the ruins of the St. Sophia Cathedral, the seat of the first Ecumenical Council of 325, evoke images of gathering bishops and convening clergy. In the 16th and 17th century, Iznik was the center of the production of the exquisite ceramic wares which have made a decorative contribution to mosques and palaces throughout Turkey. Among the important Islamic buildings in town, be sure to visit the turquoise tiled Yesil Mosque and the Nilufer Hatun Imareti.

Yenisehir, on the road to Bursa, is filled with many interesting and lovely old Turkish houses. The 18th century Semaki Konak, now restored as a museum, welcomes visitors.

Bilecik

The province of Bilecik lies south of Iznik in the verdant and fertile Sakarya River valley. In the old quarter of the city, stands the mausoleum of Seyh Edebali, an important influence in the founding of the Ottoman Empire. Every September a commemorative ceremony and culture festival is held here in his memory. Near his tomb is the Orhan Gazi Mosque.

Set amid the numerous willows which give Sogut its name, the town is somewhat off the beaten path. A detour is well worth the effort. The migrating Kayi Turks first settled here, and the tomb of their leader Ertugrul Gazi stands in town. In September a commemorative ceremony is held in his memory. Other tourist attractions include the life-size busts of famous figures from Turkish history and the Ethnographical Museum which traces, through its displays, the history of Turkey.

Bursa

The city of Bursa, southeast of the Sea of Marmara, wraps around the lower slopes of Uludag (Mt. Olympus of Mysla, 2443 meters). The city derives its name from its founder Prusias, King of Bithynia. It subsequently came under Roman, then Byzantine rule, before falling to Osman I in 1326 becoming the first capital of the Ottoman Empire.

Nicknamed "Green Bursa," the city is filled with gardens and parks and overlooks a verdant plain. Bursa was, and is still famous, for its silk trade, for towel manufacture fruits and for its thermal springs. You must taste locally invented Iskender Kebab, a dish of bread, tomato sauce, strips of grilled meat, melted butter and yogurt. Candied chestnuts are another regional specialty.

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A tour of the city begins in the eastern section at the Yesil Turbe (Green Mausoleum). Set in a garden and distinguished by its paneling of blue tiles, the mausoleum holds the tiled cenotaph of Sultan Mehmet 1. Across the street, the Yesil Mosque of 1424 reflects the new Ottoman, as opposed to Seljuk, aesthetic. A medrese nearby completes the complex which is also home to the Ethnographical Museum. Before exploring this area, stop for a glass of tea in one of the traditional tea houses. Uphill to the east you pass by the Emir Sultan Mosque, in a delightful setting, and after walking through a quarter of old houses, you reach the Mosque of Beyazit I (1391).

Now make your way to Cumhuriyet Square (known locally as Heykel) and stroll along Ataturk Avenue to Koza Park where outdoor cafes are set among flowers and fountains. At the back of the park, a long building, the Koza Han (1940), houses the trade in silk cocoons. From here you proceed to the covered bazaar area, with its narrow streets, caravansaries and bedesten. On another side of Koza Park stands the Orhan Gazi Mosque, built in 1413 and one of Bursa's oldest religious buildings. Nearby the large Ulu Mosque was constructed in the Seljuk style. A finely carved walnut mimber and impressive calligraphic panels decorate the mosque. The sadirvan (ablutions fountain), unusually, lies within the mosque itself under the ceiling of 20 domes.

Walking west from the Ulu Mosque you arrive at Hisar, an old and picturesque quarter of Bursa. In the park that overlooks the valley are the mausoleums of Osman, the founder of the Ottoman Empire, and his son Orhan Gazi who commanded the army that conquered Bursa. The cafes of Tophane offer a good place to stop for refreshment. Nearby in Ressamlar Sokak (Artists' Street) local artists work in the open air.

At the Yildiz Park Tea Gardens in the Muradiye quarter, you get a superb view of the Muradiye Complex. The compound, in a tranquil park-like setting, contains the Mosque of Sultan Murat 11 (1426) built in the style of the Yesil Mosque and the tombs of Murat 11, Cem and Sehzade Mustafa. The nearby Ottoman House Museum in a restored 17th century dwelling provides an interesting glimpse of the lives of wealthy Ottomans.

Other places of interest in Bursa include the Culture Park with the Bursa Archaeological Museum and the Ataturk Museum on the road to Cekirge. The western suburb of Cekirge has been known since Roman times for its warm, mineral-rich springs. Many modern hotels have thermal bath facilities and you can, as well, visit the old hamams. Yeni Kaplica (New Spring) was built by Suleyman the Magnificent's Grand Vizier, Rustem Pasha in 1552. The Eski Kaplica (Old Spring), built on the site of the original Roman baths, is the oldest bath. The Karamustafa Pasha baths are reputed to have the best hot mineral waters in Bursa. Buildings of interest in ,Cekirge include the Mosque and Mausoleum of Murat I and the tomb of Suleyman Celebi, a religious poet. The monument to Karagoz, commemorates the character whose humorous antics are immortalized in Turkish shadow puppet theater.

Uludag is the largest winter sports center in Turkey. 36 km from Bursa, the slopes are easily reached by car or cable car (teleferik). December to May are the best months for skiing, although the area, which is a national park, is well worth a visit at any time of the year.

A seaside resort town 25 km from Bursa, Mudanya's fine fish restaurants and nightclubs are popular with residents of Bursa. The Armistice Museum is worth a quick visit. Just 12 km from Mudanya, Zeytinbag (Trilye) exemplifies the architecture and layout of a typical Turkish town.

The Gulf of Gemlik 29 km from Bursa has - wide sandy beaches; Armutlu and Kumla are the favorites.

Balikesir

The province of Balikesir borders both the Marmara and Aegean regions. In the capital of Balikesir, nature and interesting historical sites blend in harmony. The mid-14th century Yildirim Mosque, built by Beyazit I is the city's oldest mosque. Of Zagnos Pasha Mosque, built in 1461 by Mehmet the Conqueror's Grand Vizier Zagnos Pasha, once part of a great complex, only the mosque and bath remain today. The Saat Kulesi (Clock Tower) built in 1827 by Mehmet Pasha imitates the Genoese Galata Tower on a smaller scale. The Karesi Bey Mausoleum of 1336 contains the cenotaphs of Karesi Bey and his five sons.

The beautiful Degirmen Bogazi, an area ten kilometers from Balikesir towards Bursa lies between two hills. Photographers will enjoy a break at Karakol village to capture the three picturesque windmills on film.

Ancient Penderamus, now called Bandirma is today an important commercial and industrial harbor second only to Istanbul's. You can spend a pleasant afternoon in the town's restaurants and cafes. Belkis (Kyzikos) lies ten kilometers west of Bandirma. In this ancient city on the Kapidag peninsula's isthmus, the Temple of Hadrian, a theater and aqueducts still stand to captivate visitors. The Kuscenneti National Park near the Lake Manyas is an ornithological site where 239 different species of birds make their homes. Every year over three million birds fly through this preserve. April and May are the best months to enjoy the wildlife. 13 km southeast of Bandirma in Karacabey, horse farms run with the magnificent pure-bred animals that are raised in the area.

Once known as ancient Erteka, Erdek is just 14 km northwest of Bandirma. One of the Sea of Marmara's oldest and most famous resort areas, it offers pristine beaches and every type of accommodation. Olive groves cover Zeytinli Island, off the coast of the Erdek Bay, where the quaint cafes and tea gardens enchant visitors.

Marmara Island, formerly known as Prokonessos rose to prominence in the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman periods because of its marble quarries which supplied the luxurious stone for the extravagant imperial buildings programs. Marble Beach near Saraylar village derives its name from the natural marble that lies just off the water's edge. In town, an open air museum displays artifacts which date back to Roman and Byzantine times.

Turkeli (Avsa) is another holiday resort that boasts of spectacular beaches and clear water as well as famous vineyards and wine cellars.

In the Manastlr district stands the Byzantine Meryem Ana Monastery.

55 km southwest of Bandirma, Gonen is Turkey's most important thermal resort -- the springs were used even in Roman times and a fifth century mosaic remains from what was originally a Roman bath. These waters come from S00 meters below the ground and emerge heated to approximately 82° C . Another 30 km to the northwest Denizkent is nice vacation spot with lovely beaches.

Sindirgi lies at the base of the Alacam Mountains amid beautiful forests and meadows in a region known for the weaving of superb Turkish carpets. The rugs of Yagcibedir are among the most prized in the country and grow more lovely the older they become.

Around the Gulf of Edremit, also in Balikesir province, are some of the most beautiful coastlines in the country where the clear waters meet sandy beaches encircled by the silvery green of olive groves. Ayvalik, Burhaniye, Oren, Edremit, Akcay and Altinoluk are all holiday towns which attract vacationers.

Tekirdag

On the opposite, northern shore of the Sea of Marmara, Tekirdag is an important commercial harbor. From both sides of this modern city of lovely promenades stretch beautiful sandy beaches. An unlikely mixture of fields of sunflowers and vineyards cover the surrounding area. The most important architectural monument is the Sinan designed Rustem Pasha Mosque, built by Suleyman the Magnificent's Grand Vizier in 1554.

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The Archaeological and Ethnographical Museum displays an extensive collection of artifacts from the area. The Rakoczy Museum occupies the house where the Hungarian prince, Rakoczy Ferench 11 (1676-1735) who fought for his people's liberation lived out his last years. The Namik Kemal Memorial (1840-1888) honors the birthplace of the famous Turkish National Poet. 60 km west of Tekirdag is the holiday center of ,Sarkoy. Beautiful vineyards cover the entire area, and the city hosts a wine festival every year.

Edirne

North of Tekirdag on the border between Greece and Turkey, Edirne was for some years the Ottoman capital and in the 1800's one of the seven largest cities of Europe. On a verdant plain of poplar trees near the junction of the Tunca and Meric Rivers, this graceful historical city welcomes visitors as they make their way to Istanbul and other points east. The people of the Edirne area trace their origins beyond the rule of the Macedonians. The Roman emperor Hadrian rebuilt the city and renamed it Adrianople after himself. With the division of the Roman Empire, the Byzantines claimed Edirne and in 1361 Sultan Murat I added it to his empire.

Its position for almost 100 years as capital of the Ottoman Empire accounts for the many historically and architecturally important buildings. With its mosques, religious complexes, bridges, old bazaars, caravansaries and palaces, Edirne is a living museum.

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The Selimiye Mosque is the city's focal point. Occupying the top of a hill, Sinan's design reflects the classical Ottoman style. Built on the orders of Sultan Selim 11, the mosque's dome is somewhat larger than that of St. Sophia in Istanbul and testifies to the technological abilities of the day and the genius of the Ottoman's master architect.

Built between 1403 and 1414 by Mehmet 1, the Eski Mosque is the oldest Ottoman structure in Edirne. The white marble of the portal contrasts with the building's cut stone and brick masonry. Calligraphic inscriptions of Koranic verses decorate the interior.

The Uc Serefeli Mosque, built between 1438 and 1447 by Murat I presages the great period of Ottoman mosque architecture under Sinan and embodies both a new freedom from restraint and advances in engineering. The northwest minaret has three galleries, hence the mosque's name and was the highest minaret until those of the Selimiye Mosque eclipsed it.

Towards the end of the 15th century, Beyazit II commissioned the architect Hayrettin to build him a complex in Edirne which includes a mosque, Darussifa (hospital), medrese, kitchen and store rooms. The mosque is square in plan covered with a deep dome; over 100 domes roof the rest of the area. The most important of the other buildings is the Darussifa which stood out in its time as a modern hospital with a unique and humane architectural design.

Little has changed in the Kaleici section of Edirne since the Middle Ages. Narrow streets lined with houses wind through the area.

Sinan built several of the famous baths m Edirne including the Sokollu, Tahtakel, Mezit Bey, Beylerbeyi and Gazi Mihal hamams. His work is also seen in the Ahmet Pasha Caravansary and the Rustem Pasha Caravansary of 1561.

Every summer, where the Tunca River divides and creates an emerald green meadow, an area called Sarayici, the Kirkpinar Greased Wrestling Contests are held.

As you walk through and peer in the corner grocery stores, you see blocks of white a local specialty. Hardaliye, a grape drink mixed with marzipan are among the city's other delicacies. Scented pots and straw baskets from here make good to resist the beautiful embroidery women.

The Archaeological and Ethnographical Museum traces the history of the area from prehistoric to Byzantine times and exhibits clothing From the late Ottoman period. At the Turkish Islamic An Museum examples of Ottoman architectural details, calligraphy, manuscripts, Korans, weapons, glass and an imperial tent used on military campaigns are displayed.

On the way to the Saroz Gulf in the Aegean Sea, you can stop at Uzunkopru to see an interesting bridge built by Murat 11 in 1444 that spans the Ergene River. Its 174 arches, the highest of which is 12.28 meters, make up its 1354 meters of length.

Kirklareli

The Yildiz (Istranca) Mountains divide the province of Kirklareli.

Lush mountainous landscape dotted with quaint houses transports you to an idyllic and tranquil frame of mind. The city of Kirklareli's oldest mosque, the Hizir Bey Mosque, was built in 1388. Nearby stands a hamam also built under Hizir Bey's patronage. The 14th century Kirklar Memorial built of an impressive 18 columns stands on Kirklar Hill.

When the Ottomans conquered this area, under the command of Murat 1, 40 soldiers lost their lives, and this memorial honors them.

Kirklareli's Black Sea Coast is another place to enjoy beaches and good fish restaurants. Igneada, 98 km east of Kirklareli, lies squeezed between its sandy shores and the Yildiz Mountains. Kiyikoy is another holiday resort town with good accommodations.

The Sokollu Mosque in Luleburgaz, on the Edirne-Istanbul road, is an exquisite work of Sinan's that dates from 1570. The neighboring town of Babaeski also boasts a Sinan building in the Ali Pasha Mosque.

If you are traveling north to Bulgaria, linger for a few hours at the peaceful and green town of Derekoy, the last stop before the border.