During the journey you pass in front of the magnificent Dolmabahce Palace; farther along rise the green parks and imperial pavilions of Yildiz Palace. On the edge of this park, on the coast, stands the Ciragan Palace now restored as a grand hotel. Refurbished in 1874 by Sultan Abdulaziz, it stretches for 1300 meters along the Bosphorus shores, its ornate marble facades reflecting the swiftly moving water. At Ortakoy, the next stop, artists gather every Sunday to exhibit their works in a streetside gallery. The variety of people create a lively scene; sample a delicious nibble from one of the street vendors. Overshadowing the traditional architecture of the village, the Bosphorus Bridge, one of the world's largest suspension bridges, links Europe and Asia.

The beautiful Beylerbeyi Palace lies just after the bridge on the Asian side. Behind the palace rises Camlica Hill, the highest point of Istanbul. On the opposite shore, the Ottoman wooden villas of Arnavutkoy contrast with the luxurious modern apartments of neighboring Bebek. A few kilometers further out, facing each other across the straits like sentries guarding the city stand the fortresses of Rumeli Hisari and Anadolu Hisari. The Goksu Palace, sometimes known as Kucuksu Palace graces the Asian shore next to the Anadolu Hisari. The recently completed second link between the two continents, the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge straddles the waterway just past the two fortresses.

From Duatepe Hill, on the European side, you can admire the magnificent panorama of the bridge and the Bosphorus. Below Duatepe, the beautiful Emirgan Park with its delightful pavilions bursts with color when the tulips bloom in the spring. Opposite on the Asian shore is Kanlica, a fishing village now a favored suburb for wealthy Istanbulites. Crowds gather in the restaurants and cafes along its shores to sample its famous yogurt. Shortly after Kanlica, at Cubuklu, the Hidiv Palace emerges out of a tranquil grove. Past the Hidiv Palace, the Beykoz (Abraham Pasha) Korusu Woods are a popular retreat. On the European side, at Tarabya Bay, yachts seem to dance at their anchorings. The coast road bustles with taverns and fish restaurants from Tarabya until the charming villages of Buyukdere and Sariyer.

The Golden Horn, a horn shaped estuary divides European Istanbul. One of the best natural harbors of the world, the Byzantine and Ottoman navies and commercial shipping interests were centered here.

At Fener, a neighborhood midway up the Golden Horn, whole streets of old wooden houses and churches date from Byzantine times. The Orthodox Patriarchy resides here. Eyup, a little further up, reflects the Ottoman style of vernacular architecture. Cemeteries sprinkled with dark cypress trees cover the hillsides. It is always busy here with pilgrims coming to the tomb of Eyup in the hope that their wish will be granted. The Pierre Loti Cafe atop the hill overlooking the shrine is a wonderful place to enjoy the tranquillity of the view.

Yachting